You have a lifetime of "unconditional love" from your pet ahead of you. Treat him* with as much respect as any new member of your family deserves and give him all the love you have to give!
When you first bring a new pup or dog into your
household, it is very important to establish your guidelines and
acceptable behaviors for him. Whatever behavior you allow during this
time will influence the pup/dog's actions in the future. It's very cute to
have a little pup chewing and playing with your shoestrings, jumping up on
you when they want to be loved, or "nibbling" on your fingers. BUT, are you
still going to think those actions are "cute" when your pup is full grown!
If you don't want him to do it as a mature dog, don't allow it while
he is a pup!
One of the best things you can do for yourself and
your new pup or dog is to crate train. Crate training is an easy method of
housebreaking and also keeps your dog out of harm's way when you cannot
be with him. Crate training utilizes a wire or plastic cage. As you've
no doubt noticed, c-a-g-e is a four letter word. Most of us don't like 4
letter words! Not only that but you don't put a family member into a cage.
You need to forget that word! You should refer to it as a crate or kennel
- the dog's very own den. Dogs derive a feeling of security from being in
their crates.
A pet dog is not going to live in his crate all
the time. He will rest in it, sleep in it, travel in it, possibly even
eat in it. When he is not doing those things in his crate, he
will be with the rest of his "pack" - his people. Providing a crate
gives a dog a safe place (as he grows and learns) from such hazards
as electrical cords, poisons and owner's belongings.
Introducing the crate
The keys to quick success are a watchful owner and a consistent
plan of action. Your dog's first experience with his crate should
be pleasant. Place crate on the floor and allow dog to check it out.
Do not force dog into crate until he has had a chance to thoroughly
sniff the crate. Place a couple of small treats or his favorite toy
just inside the crate. When he goes into the crate to retrieve the treat
or toy, give the dog lots of praise. As soon as he starts to exit
the crate, stop all praise. Repeat this several times, tossing the treat or toy
further into the crate. The crate door is open at this point.
Next, toss in a couple of small treats or favorite
toy to the rear of the crate as you are saying "kennel" or "crate" (any word
can be used for this command as long as it is used consistently). Once the
dog goes into the crate to retrieve the goody, give lots of praise and
close the crate door.
If, after patiently trying to lure the dog into
the crate, you find he is still reluctant, wait until time for the
his breakfast or dinner and place his food bowl in the crate for
twenty minutes with the crate door open. If he has not eaten within
the twenty minutes, take up the food and try again at his next meal
time. It will not hurt the dog to miss this meal. Do not give the
dog any treats between meals. Again, place the food bowl in the crate
for twenty minutes. The food bowl should be placed in the front of the
crate until the first success. Then move the bowl to the back of the crate.
Once the dog has successfully gone into the crate for his meal, you
may close the door while he is eating.
After dog comfortable going into the crate,
gradually extend the length of time he is left in the crate. If the
dog whines, ignore it. This behavior should soon stop. If the dog
continues whining or barking, gruffly in a deep voice, give the command
"Quiet"("hush", "No Noise"), and then either squirt the dog with a spray
bottle filled with water or toss a "penny jar** or can" toward the crate.
Either of these distractions should cause the dog to stop whining or
barking. As soon as the dog stops whining or barking, tell him
"Good, quiet*, good". (*Use the command word you have chosen). The dog
will soon learn that he must stop whining or he will receive a
correction.
House training
MORNING: As soon as either you or the dog
awakens in the morning, you must take the dog outside to eliminate.
(Remember, it gets easier as the pup matures.) At the first whine or
bark in the morning, you should open the crate door and say "Let's go
outside" in a very matter of fact voice. Either carry a small pup (attaching
a leash along the way) or leash-lead a larger pup/dog to the exact spot
you want him to eliminate. Stand in one spot and tell him
to "Hurry up". (This command can be any term you want to use but must be
used each and every time you want the dog to eliminate. This is very
important.) Remember, this is not a walk, it is a "business trip". When
the dog begins to eliminate, praise quietly (Go-o-o-d dog). Allow
sufficient time for urination and defecation. Move the leash back and forth
to get a non-complying dog to move if he is just standing and
staring at you. It is extremely important for you to 1) use a leash and 2)
be there to praise the dog at least for the first couple of weeks when
he begins to eliminate. (After 2-3 weeks, your dog should be able to go
the "spot" on his own.) Do not allow the dog to turn this "business"
trip into play time! After the dog has eliminated, return inside, ending
the "business" trip. It is at this time that you can then take the dog
back outside to go for a walk, to play or to allow the him to explore
a fenced yard.
DAYTIME: The dog's activities should be
monitored throughout the day when you or a family member is home. When the
dog sniffs, walks in circles or appears anxious, he should be
leash-led to "the spot" you have decided will be his elimination area.
Successful housebreaking depends on a quick response to such clues. If
constant supervision (keeping BOTH eyes on him)is not possible,
put him in the crate. If the dog should have an accident in the
house, the area needs to be cleaned immediately with an odor eliminator or
a solution of vinegar and water. The dog should never be punished for
soiling in the house unless you catch the dog in the act. If you do
catch him, tell him "NO" very firmly and immediately take him
outside to "the spot".
If the dog must be left alone for a few hours,
he should be taken out for elimination immediately prior to your
departure, then placed in the crate. When placing the dog in the
crate and as you are leaving, be very matter of fact. If the dog gets
the idea that you are upset or sad because he is in the crate, you will
soon see that the dog does not like the crate. Dogs "read" our emotions
and body language. Show a positive attitude about crate training, visits
to the vet and all other aspects of obedience training. Having a radio
playing, some safe toys and a blanket or crate pad should be sufficient to
relieve most dog's anxiety of being left alone. If you have a dog
who eats his toys or bedding, it is best that you leave those items out
of the crate until he can be trusted. When returning home, you should,
in a matter of fact manner, immediately get the dog out of the crate
(again using your key words such as "Let's go outside") and leash lead the
dog out to his "spot". Again, make this a "business" trip.
BEDTIME: The dog needs to go out one last
time before being placed in the crate for the night. The crate should be
moved into the bedroom first as the mere presence of the owner will be
comforting. Again, if the dog should whine or bark, do not yell. Tell
the dog "Quiet"* ("hush"*, "no noise*"), then either squirt with a spray
bottle or toss a "penny jar or can" toward the crate. Either of these
distractions should cause the dog to stop whining or barking. As soon
as the dog stops whining or barking, tell him "good, quiet*, good".
The dog should follow your example and call it a day.
Keep in mind that a pup's bladder is not as large
as a mature dog's. If, during the first few weeks, your puppy wakes during
the night and signals you (usually by whining or barking!) that he needs
to go, drag yourself out of bed and take him out!! This will help to
teach the puppy to alert you to his elimination needs. While you are
outside (still half asleep and wondering why in the world you ever decided
to get a dog!), try to keep a positive attitude, remembering that it won't
be long until his bladder will be large enough to "make it" through the
night! Once the dog has eliminated, return to your nice comfortable bed and
try to get back to sleep! :) By the way, since you know the dog just
eliminated outside, do not allow the dog to whine or bark to get your
attention that he thinks it is time for you to get up and play! This
is the perfect time to reinforce the "Quiet" command.
(*Masculine/feminine gender interchangeable, as is dog and pup.)
(**Penny jar or can - plastic bottle with or without a handle in any size
you are comfortable with or a soda can (taped closed) with 4 or 5 pennies
inside. By shaking or throwing the Penny jar, it will make a horrific noise,
startling the dog and momentarily getting him to stop unwanted
behavior. Can be used to inhibit other bad behaviors such as chewing on
inappropriate items, getting into the trash, jumping up on people, etc.)
Check with your local obedience clubs for information on basic obedience classes. It will be money well spent - a dog who is a joy to be around!
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